Oh Well, I’m Going to Hel…sinki

Helsinki is truly a jewel in the crown of Nordic capitals, but is often overshadowed by its sister cities. Sweden gets billed as a socialist paradise, Norway gets name recognition through the cruise and airline, and Denmark is really pushing the hygge thing in an uhyggeligt fashion. So, what about Finland?

Before we zoom in on Finland, a quick terminology briefing: “Nordic” includes Finland, Iceland, and the Scandinavian countries. “Scandinavians” hail from Sweden, Denmark, and/or Norway. If you want to be particularly correct and exclude Iceland and their very immodest recent spike in tourism-baiting and self-promotion with WOW and Icelandic Air, refer to “Fennoscandia.” Moving on.

A Start to the Finn

Before you visit any place in Finland, you need to know some keywords and quick facts. A few that come to mind include:

• Sauna: A core aspect of Finnish well-being, as well as a place for business meetings. As an example, the Embassy of Finland to the US includes a sizable sauna.
• Swedish is the second official language to Finnish. You’ll see Finnish then Swedish on signage such as street signs. I am a Swedish-speaking Finn, so some terminology in this post will be one of the two options you see, like…
• Mumin (Swedish), or Moomin: An absolutely endearing, attractive (no warts, crooked noses, or other witch-like qualities bestowed on American versions) troll. He and his family and friends are quite cuddly, their movies and comic books are delightful, and there is even a Muminland theme park.
• Nokia: An example of the Finnish technology sector and the phone you had before your first iPhone. Finland is still home to a major tech center, startups, and games, like…
• Angry Birds: A mobile game with angry birds. There was recently a major movie starring the birds and the game. Exports come in all shapes and and sizes of birds, I suppose.
• Alvar Aalto: Famed Finnish designer. Most Finns own a version of his most popular vase. I think my immediate family owns three.
• Fazer: The best chocolate and candy maker in the world. Bring me back some Fazermint?
• Ittala: Beautifully designed modern glassware.
• Marimekko: Bold, playful textile designs also printed on bags, clothes, servingware, bath items, etc. The Unikko poppy print is their trademark design.
• Finns get design, if you didn’t get that already.
• Finnair: How you are probably getting to Helsinki, unless you took SAS.
• Finnish: Arguably one of the the hardest languages in the world and a completely separate branch (or completely separate tree in some drawings) from all other languages.

Deep in Helsinki

So, now that you are perhaps armed with more terminology and cultural context than you bargained for, here’s what to know and what not to miss in Helsinki. 

Destinations on any visit:

• Kauppatori/Salutorget: In the morning, visit this open air fish market and coffee shop (there’s nothing fishy about this combination and they are separate, I promise) by the water in central Helsinki. Kauppatori is an over 50 year-old Helsinki establishment of orange tents on a cobblestone piazza that has hosted the likes of Presidents Kennedy and Reagan and Queen Elizabeth. Stroll to see the fresh catches and then take a seat at the café (remember, British and American royalty have sat on the same small stools) and order coffee with a delicious sweet or savory pastry. As a note, there are now two cafés there. The one closer to the water is the “real” one. The other one is only okay.
• Esplanade + Alexsanterikatu: These are two main streets to walk or shop, either adjacent or very close to Kauppatori. Make sure you pick something up from Marimekko!

  Which reminds me – outdoor seating: As soon as it is possible to sit outside in April or so, the Helsinki crowd will do it. It may still be freezing, but as soon as a cafe opens its outdoor seating and the days are getting longer, Finns will not waste any part of summer.

• Stockmann: The city’s flagship department store. In addition to all kinds of typical merchandise, they boast an incredibly expansive and impressive delicatessen/grocery, nice souvenirs, and a restaurant with a great range of Nordic dishes.
• Strinberg’s: A go-to cafe with an excellent menu and even better people watching. Fazer’s café is another, as is Ekberg’s, whose Napoleon my mom swears by. They all have incredib cakes and other patisserie goodies.
• Churches: Helsinki is home to two main tourism-attracting churches. One, Tuomiokirkko or Helsinki Cathedral, which towers over the city, is an overt landmark. The other is much less visible. An architectural treat and a spiritual point of interest, the Temppeliaukio or Rock Church is built into the mountain. The Uspenski Cathedral is another church that looms over the Helsinki skyline.
• City center saunas: The new hip, modern, architecturally striking Löyly has a rooftop bar terrace and a great restaurant, as well as being a sauna destination. Allas Sea Pool is just off the Kauppatori area and allows you to enjoy sauna time alternated with dips in the Baltic Sea. Make sure to come back in the winter to go from sauna to a snow shuffle to icy sea water and then back to the heat. There’s also a warm pool if the Finnish way is not for you.
• 15-20 minute ferries from Kauppatori: The summer also opens up opportunities to get on the water and take ferries to some of the islands in the archipelago.

  Suomenlinna Sea Fortress (15-20min ferry). UNESCO World Heritage Site. While it’s important to Helsinki’s history, it’s also just a glorious ride and place to look around.

  Pihlajasaari – beach island and a top summer destination. Has a restaurant and views of the city.

• Alko/S-market: Why not check out a Finnish grocery store and the state owned liquor store. Try new snacks, empty the candy aisle, imagine being tiny enough to use a mini shopping cart, etc.

In the fall:

I’m publishing this post in November, which is actually probably the worst time to go to Helsinki. It’s not the glorious summer, it’s not the cozy, snowy winter, it’s just dark, wet, and grim. Everyone you see, regardless of how nice they are, will be wearing dark clothes, be unhappy about the rain and general wetness, and have a grim expression. The general sense won’t be far from the Stones’ “Paint It Black.” I’m actually writing this en route to the Pacific rim to sun and 80F+, with the inspiration for the post being someone who is actually going to Finland at this time.

In the winter:

But, fear not, as November leads into December and a truly magical time of year. Finland is actually the home of Santa Claus (joulupukki), his reindeer, and a whole flotilla of tomtar/elves/sous-Santas (and Finnair is their official airline). Traditions, candles, and dainty, often handcrafted holiday decor bring the city to life during the long winter nights. This winter is particularly special as December 7 marks 100 years of independence from Russia since 1917.

Finnish Your Plate

Do not leave the country without tasting some of the following:

• Coffee (Finland has the highest consumption of coffee per capital in the world)
• Silakka/strömming (herring, pan-fried or grilled. Sometimes presented in filets, otherwise as whole, cleaned fish with bones)
• Graavi lohi/gravad lax (salmon that is prepared but not cooked with heat)
• Lohikeittoa/lax soppa – a creamy salmon soup with potatoes and fresh dill on top
• Dill (on your potatoes, on your herring, on your salmon, in your sauce, etc)
• Eskimo ice cream (childhood rec but still stands!)
• Everything Fazer (classic milk chocolate in blue packaging, Fazermint, Geisha, Wiener Nougat, Gröna Kulor, etc)
• Cinnamon buns (US readers- these actually taste like cinnamon and have no icing)
• Potatoes (and in the summer, new potatoes)
• Jaffa (the best orange soda)
• Hot dog stands (the long red korv are a personal favorite)
• Finnish beer (Lapin Kulta, Karhu, etc., though I’m sure the craft beer scene has taken off and has much to offer )

Enjoy your trip! Please leave any questions or other feedback in the comments section below.